Axum is one of Ethiopia’s most culturally significant places. Exploring this town involves navigating between facts and legends, with local guides often guiding you toward the latter. It’s all part of the experience.
Axum is renowned for its Stelae field, where giant obelisks rise high into the sky. These impressive structures became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980 and have a fascinating history dating back to 400 BCE.
Unlike other northern Ethiopian towns, Axum remains less developed. The lack of quality hotels means most visits are short, typically limited to a one-night stay. The Stelae and nearby churches can be explored in an afternoon. Axum also serves as a perfect springboard for further explorations of Tigray and the Gheralta Mountains, and it’s often visited before or after a Danakil Depression expedition.
Exploring the City
Axum, home to the Queen of Sheba and the Ark of the Covenant, is one of Africa’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, dating back to 400 BC.
To the north of the city lies the Stelae field, with obelisks carved and erected in the 4th century. These towering pillars, over 1,700 years old and 24 meters tall, are made of solid granite, some weighing over 160 tons. They’re an awe-inspiring sight.
In the same area, researchers have discovered several tombs since the 1970s. Sadly, many had been plundered, but one grave, The Tomb of the False Door, remains open to visitors.
The Church of Saint Mary of Zion, which houses the Ark of the Covenant, is a must-see. Locals regard it as one of Ethiopia’s holiest sites, with a history spanning 1,700 years.
The Obelisks of Axum
Axum was once the heart of the Axumite Empire, which lasted for nearly a thousand years. King Ezana built the 160-ton monument in the 4th century, and it stood for over a thousand years until the Italian occupation. In the 1930s, the Italians removed the Monolith of Axum, partially dismantled it, and transported it to Rome. It stayed there for nearly 90 years until it was returned to Ethiopia in 2008.
The Obelisk features intricate false doors and windows, with detailed carvings that reflect impressive craftsmanship. The graphite used came from a quarry miles south of Axum, showcasing the advanced social organization and technology of the time.
The Ark of the Covenant
Despite many myths, the Ark of the Covenant has been housed in Axum since the 17th century. Emperor Iysau, during his reign, built the Church of Mary of Zion to protect it. Though the Ark’s transport to Ethiopia remains a mystery, it’s now securely kept under lock and key in the church.
Getting There
Axum is 1,024 km north of Addis Ababa via Mekele, or 1,180 km via Gondar. Flights connect Axum to Addis Ababa, Gondar, and Lalibela. The airport is about 5 km from the town center, with hotels offering free transfers.
Getting Around
Taxis and bajajis (tuk-tuks) are available for sightseeing. Guides are optional but recommended and can be arranged through the Axum Guides Association.
Accommodation
Axum has a range of hotels, including Atrons Fantasy Hotel, Yared Zema International Hotel, and Sabean International Hotel, catering to budget and midrange travelers. A few upscale options are also available.
Festivals
Axum is a great place to celebrate Meskel (September 27), a festival honoring the discovery of the True Cross. Timkat (January 19) and Kidus Maryam (December 1) are also popular festivals.
Shopping
Axum’s craft stalls sell traditional cotton cloths, baskets, crosses, and other local handicrafts, perfect for souvenirs.
